Ryan Robinson, Director of Education, Brescome Barton and Worldwide Wines.
By Ryan Robinson, Advanced Sommelier-CMS, WSET Diploma and WSET Educator
Picking up where we left off last month’s column, we reconvene for Part Two of the series on Sauternes.
It is dramatically different from the massive amount of wine produced in the Bordeaux region of France. When I think of Bordeaux, I immediately recall the full-bodied red wines backed by Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. They exhibit power, and structure, coupled with a fineness that can only be crafted in Bordeaux. Unlike its powerful red brethren, Sauternes is starkly different, with its lusciously sweet droplets of gold.
The backbone of Sauternes is typically Semillon, which thrives in botrytized conditions due to its thin skins and waxy texture. It gives the wines weight and that signature honeyed character. Sauvignon Blanc brings acidity, lift, and aromatic energy, while small amounts of Muscadelle can add floral notes and perfume, although rarely used. Together, the blend creates wines that are layered, electric, and capable of aging for decades.
And ageability is a major part of the Sauternes story. These are not fragile little after-dinner wines meant to be consumed quickly and forgotten. The combination of sugar, acidity, concentration, and botrytis-derived complexity makes great Sauternes one of the longest-lived wines on earth. Young bottles can show apricot, pineapple, marmalade, saffron, candied citrus, and orange blossom. With time, they shift into something deeper and more haunting: toasted nuts, caramelized fruit, brûléed sugar, mushroom, beeswax, tea, and spice. The best bottles can age for 30, 50, or even 100 years in strong vintages. Aging is what Sauternes does well.
I had the unique opportunity to attend the Masterclass of Trilogies this year at VinItaly hosted by Stevie Kim and the CEO of Château d’Yquem, Lorenzo Pasquini. Stevie Kim is the ever-Italian wine evangelist, as she wears many hats. I think her greatest success, of many, is the way she has brought the world (of wine) together to form a unified Italian wine community, backed by her now 400-plus Italian wine ambassadors spanning the globe who have successfully passed the Italian Wine Ambassador exam.
Pasquini brings a unique, fresh approach as he has revitalized the iconic wines of Château d’Yquem. Born in Italy, he brings a fresh approach to the Sauternes discussion, which was the inspiration for this article. I learned a lot of interesting new facts about the property. For example, as Sauternes is handpicked, in multiple successions as only the botrytis-covered berries are selected. At d’Yquem, the Estate is only 190 hectares with 100 of that dedicated to vineyards. Of that, 60-80 bottles are produced. That’s really not a lot!
To compare that to still wine, a producer could make 400,000 -1,067,000 bottles of wine from the same 100 hectares of vines. When hand harvesting, moldy berries are selected one berry at a time … definitely a labor of patience and love. The age of a harvest worker in this area is also strikingly unique as harvest relies on people from the community with an average age of 60.
The opportunity to tase these two trilogies that were paired side-by-side; 2021-2023 and 1988-1990 felt like a once in a lifetime experience. These wines were beautifully elegant, yet so different from one-another. Each boasting its own unique identity. My takeaway was that Sauternes has a universal character that needs to be brought to the forefront.
But here’s where I think the wine world gets Sauternes wrong. We’ve trained consumers to think of it only alongside foie gras or dessert. Yes, those pairings work, but Sauternes has functionality far beyond that narrow lane. Sauternes wants to be pared with your meal. Rotisserie chicken, for example, may sound unexpected, but it works wonderfully. The crisp skin, savory herbs, and roasted richness play off the acidity and texture of the wine in a way that feels luxurious without becoming heavy. Sauternes doesn’t just handle salt and fat; it thrives on them.
That’s why I think restaurants are missing a major opportunity. Sauternes shouldn’t be hidden away at the bottom of the dessert section. It should live right alongside the wines by the glass.
For retailers, the same opportunity exists. Consumers are increasingly looking for wines with identity and authenticity. Sauternes has both in abundance. That story matters; Sauternes is a product of geography, culture, risk, and human persistence. Perhaps that’s why it once held such a revered place at the table. Not because it was sweet, but because it was singular. Maybe it’s time we started treating it that way again.
Ryan Robinson is the Director of Education for Brescome-Barton Inc., and Worldwide Wines in Connecticut, an Adjunct Professor at the University of New Haven, and is the Principal at SommCentric, a beverage education and consulting agency. He is a member on the USA Wine Tasting Team, representing the United States and the World Wine Tasting Championships and holds the credentials of Advanced Sommelier-CMS; WSET Diploma and WSET Educator in Wine, Sake and Beer; Rioja Wine Educator; VIA Italian Wine Ambassador; Wine Scholar Guild Educator and Italian and Spanish Wine Specialist; and Certified Scotch Whisky.
